As the final slivers of daylight slipped away and the night stars appeared, a shroud of silence slowly washed over the crowd as Fear Of God's first runway show was set to begin. Sampha's selection of melodic songs aptly set the atmosphere, as he glided across the keys of a stainless upright piano and sang to soothe the crowd. Love and tranquility were clear, but the opening arrangement fused with contemplative reverence, setting the mood for Jerry Lorenzo's well-thought-out runway offering.

Since its emergence in 2013, Fear Of God has become a signifier of new-age American luxury. Even with the label's streetwear roots, each season's catalog of offerings has opened the dialogue on what American luxury is and who defines its parameters. By staging the show at Los Angeles' renowned Hollywood Bowl amphitheater, Lorenzo crafted his show to reflect that evolution only exists in its acknowledgment of history. As Sampha departed from the minimal, yet grand step-like stage, a sampling of "Glory" seeped through speakers before Nina Simone's cover of "Strange Fruit" swiftly followed. In opening the show, Lorenzo made it clear that acknowledging American history would be incomplete without showcasing the pain of the Black experience.

With each passing look, it was clear that each collection over the past decade has been leading to this moment. The Fall/Winter 2023 pieces reveal a succession of design growth from the brand, with sublimely tailored overcoats that draped off the shoulders, broad blazers, freely moving yet contained pants, and minimally elegant tops. Even though tailoring served as a collection mainstay once again, the pieces were heightened by gracefully broad shoulders (seen on Adut Akech), sharp yet soft lines, and leather wrap detailing.

Beyond specific pieces, the collection blended the brand's previous usage of elegantly muted shades like buttermilk, hazelwood, toffee, pecan, pewter gray, and black with luxurious wool, leather, boucle, faux fur, and cotton fabrics. The show wouldn't have been complete without Adidas pieces, which appeared via shorts, baseball caps, and gym bags.

As looks continued to cascade down the runway, the music transitioned from contemplative piano keys to C-Murder's "Down For My Ni**az," a celebrated HBCU tune (nods to Lorenzo's FAMU attendance) and a song of cultural confidence. The air of confidence and triumph as a result of pain pervades the Black experience, a feeling Lorenzo aptly reveals as a hallmark of American tradition, both the ugly and the beautiful. From enslavement to freedom, Christianity, and Black creativity, Lorenzo used his debut showing as a means of not just reflection, but celebration.

‍